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Via Francigena
Walking the Via Francigena in Italy
Below is a high level description of the entire route in Italy separated by region, with distances and time to complete each region, some suggested starting and ending locations, and the terrain.
Valle d'Aosta
This is one of the shortest sections of the Via Francigena. It is one of the most beautiful, undiscovered regions of Italy. The ideal time to hike is anytime from May through to October however do not be surprised to find snow as late of June at Gran San Bernardo.
Distance:120 km
Daily Stages:4-6 depending on start and finish locations
Possible Start Locations:Gran San Bernardo or Aosta
Possible Finish Locations Pont-Saint-Martin or Ivrea
Terrain:Descends from an altitude of approx 2,500 m along the Valle d'Aosta towards Ivrea with some hilly sections
The Po River Valley
This is one of the longest sections of the Via Francigena as the path crosses the far western reaches of the valley. You should not miss the symbolic crossing of the Po River. The ideal time to hike is from May through to October. The region is covered large man-made lakes in the spring as the rice, while in September the same rice fields have turned golden brown just before harvest season.
Daily Stages: 7-12 depending on start and finish locations
Possible Start Locations:Ivrea, Fidenza or Pavia
Possible Finish Locations:Pavia or Fidenza
Terrain: Generally flat with some long distances
The Apennine Mountains & Lunigiana
This is one of the more commonly hiked sections of the route, offering a varied terrain and plenty of cultural, history, and unique foods to try. Lunigiana is also one of the most beautiful, undiscovered region of Italy. The ideal time to hike is from May through to October however don’t be surprised to find snow as late as June at the Cisa Pass
Distance: Approx 220 km
Daily Stages: 8 -10 depending on start and finish locations
Possible Start Locations: Fidenza or Pontremoli
Possible Finish Locations: Sarzana or Lucca
Terrain: First part of the route gradually ascends the Apennine Mountains, crossing through the Cisa Pass into Tuscany and then descends rapidly into Lunigiana and follows the coast towards Lucca.
Tuscany
Rolling vineyard covered hills and barren lands especially further south best describe this section. It is also one of the most beautiful, but most discovered regions of Italy, but few people choose to walk through it. The ideal time to hike is from April through to October however, July and August can be hot especially further south you go.
Distance: Approx 250 km
Daily Stages: 6 -11 depending on start and finish locations and some long daily stages that might be broken up.
Possible Start Locations: Lucca or Siena
Possible Finish Locations: Siena or Acquapendente
Terrain: Rolling hills of vineyards north of Siena and some long barren stretches through Val d’ Orcia south of Siena
Lazio
This is most popular section given its close proximity to Rome and the required minimum distance to earn a Testimonium.
Distance: Approx 165 km
Daily Stages: 8 stages
Start Location: Acquapendente
Finish Location: Rome
Terrain: Wooded hills, ancient volcanoes and lakes, easy walking most of the way.
Both a Challenge and an Opportunity
The Via Francigena unlike the Camino de Santiago in Spain is still undiscovered.
There are challenges. Some sections of the trail are elusive, signage is still a problem in many places and some stages are long. It is helpful to know a bit of Italian. However, during the past couple of years sections of the trail where re-routed away from busy roads, and there are many plans underway to improve the existing sections, enhance the signage and expand the infrastructure including accommodation.
However, the rewards are plenty. The Via Francigena offers a wonderful opportunity to experience and enjoy parts of Italy that even many Italians have not seen. Along the way, you can taste some extraordinary unique regional foods and wines and witness hundred if not thousands of years of history and culture. And always there is the fine universal friendly Italian hospitality to greet you throughout your journey and at the end of each day.
The Modern Via Francigena
Today, the Via Francigena in Italy starts at Gran San Bernardo and finishes in Rome, approximately 1000km later. It takes approximately 44 to 48 days to walk it (or less than half this time by bike) in Italy. This excludes extra days for rest or sightseeing.
Since 2009, the trail has undergone significant changes and improvements, including the re-routing of some sections away from busy roads, improved signage and new accommodation. Today, there are a number of guidebooks in various languages and plenty of good websites that provide additional material and up to date information. See "Want to Learn More" page for more information.
Food History and Culture
The Via Francigena passes through six unique historical, culinary and cultural regions, offering an opportunity to experience a piece of Italy’s Etruscan, Roman and medieval past and enjoy some of Italy’s finest food and wines.
Valle d'Aosta
Starting at Gran San Bernardo in the tiny region of Valle d’Aosta, a small French-speaking corner of northwest Italy, the Via Francigena follows the path taken by Napoleon in May 1800, passing numerous convents, monasteries, pilgrim hostels, churches and castles. At times, you will see sections of the old Roman Road that led to the ancient region of Francia, as you cross over old Roman and medieval bridges. You can taste and enjoy fine cheeses include Toma, Fontina DOP, and Fromadzo DOP. Meat dishes include beef stew called carbonnade, breaded veal cutlets called costoletta, spicy blood sausages called boudin, and mocetta, a rare prosciutto made of chamois or ibex.
The Po River Valley
Next, the Via Francigena passes through the rice capital of Europe, the Po River valley, once a swampy, malaria invested marshland, now known as the Vercellese, home to grange, large agricultural farms of the Benedictine and Cistercian monks. Here you find risotto dishes such as panissa, a typical risotto from Vercelli, salame d'oca, goose salami from Mortara, and Risotto alla Certosina from the Carthusian monastery of Certosa near Pavia.
The Apennine Mountains & Lunigiana The Via Francigena climbs the Apennine Mountains along sections of the medieval road, the Via di Monte Bardone, and crosses the Cisa Pass. It enters the remote region of Lunigiana, "the valley of 100 castles", also known as "the valley of the moon." The traditional cuisine includes dishes made with chestnuts such as lasagna bastarde, and wild game, herb cakes called torta d'erbi, and flat bread served with pesto and local cheese called testaroli.
Tuscany
Further south is central Tuscany, home to fava, toscanelli, and cannellini beans, as well as pasta dishes such as tagliatelle, homemade wide-ribbon pappardelle, and “rustic spaghetti” called pici, all mixed with large amounts of extra virgin olive oil. This is home to the famous Tuscan hilltop towns, like San Miniato (home of the white truffle), and San Gimignano (famous for its towers) and the medieval cities of Lucca and Siena. Further south are the wide-open barren moon like spaces of the Crete Senesi and the Val d’Orcia.
Lazio
Entering the region of Lazio, the prehistoric, volcanic hotbed sometimes known as Tuscia and home of the Etruscans, the Via Francigena passes the volcanic Lake Bolsena, before reaching Montefiascone, once believed to be the Etruscan Temple of Fanum Voltumnae. Here they serve fish soup called sbroscia, as well as corégone, a lake salmon served with different kinds of sauces. Another common dish is eel, typically fried and pickled with herbs and spices. The Via Francigena continues past the Etruscan ruins of Sutri and the lush forest of Parco di Veio before arriving at Monte Mario where you can stop and admire the view of Rome and the Vatican.
